Cherry Shrimp

Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) are the beginner shrimp that actually breed: bright red colonies in 5–10 gallon planted tanks, plant-safe grazers that live on biofilm—not copper. Zero copper meds and fertilizers, stable hardness for molting, and fish that cannot fit a shrimp in their mouth. Start a group of 10+, skip the betta, and the colony does the rest.

Who This Fish Is For

Cherry shrimp are for keepers who want color, motion, and a breeding colony without advanced Caridina chemistry. Ideal if you like planted nanos, snails, and peaceful micro-fish—or a shrimp-only tank where the population explodes on purpose.

They are not for tanks treated with copper, unstable new cycles, or predatory “community” fish (bettas, angels, most cichlids, large tetras). They are plant-safe: they graze biofilm and soft algae; they do not shred healthy aquascapes. If you want a red carpet of shrimp on moss, start here. Broader context: shrimp keeping guide.

Care Snapshot

Spec	Value
Adult size	1–1.5 inches
Minimum tank	5 gallons (small colony)
Recommended	10 gallons (stable colony)
Temperature	65–78°F (breeding better ~70–76°F)
pH / hardness	6.5–8.0; GH ~4–14, KH enough for stability
Temperament	Completely peaceful
Diet	Biofilm, algae, wafers, blanched veggies
Lifespan	1–2 years
Colony start	10+ mixed sexes
Kill switch	Copper, ammonia, hungry fish

Tank Setup

Volume: 5 gallons works for ~10–20 shrimp if mature and planted; 10 gallons is more forgiving. Larger tanks support 100+ colonies easily.

Cycle first. Ammonia and nitrite kill shrimp fast. Wait for a fully cycled system with measurable biofilm—not a sterile day-one tank.

Hardscape and plants (plant-safe grazers):

• Mosses (Java, Christmas, flame) = baby shrimp habitat and grazing surface
• Hornwort, guppy grass, crypts, Anubias, floating plants for shade
• Driftwood and leaf litter boost biofilm
• Dark sand/gravel makes red pop; inert substrate is fine—active “shrimp soil” is optional for Neocaridina

Lid: They climb. Secure covers prevent mysterious disappearances.

Filtration: Gentle. Sponge filters are ideal—no shrimp in the impeller. Mature media over sterile high-flow canisters blasting a 5-gallon. Light surface movement is enough; they do not need a powerhead.

Stocking density: Rough rule—start 10, let breeding set the ceiling; thin the herd by selling or rehoming rather than overfeeding a boom. A 10-gallon heavily planted tank can hold dozens if water stays clean and food is light.

Acclimation: Drip for 1–2 hours. Parameter shock (especially GH/pH) drops shrimp as often as “mystery disease.” Never dump bag water into the display.

Setup blueprint: complete aquarium setup and planted tank setup.

Water Parameters

• Temperature: 65–78°F; keep stable. Above ~80°F shortens life and stresses colonies.
• pH: 6.5–8.0 (often happiest ~7.0–7.5)
• GH: Roughly 4–14 dGH—minerals for shells
• KH: Enough to stop pH crashes (often ~3–15 dKH)
• Ammonia / nitrite: 0 ppm
• Nitrate: Prefer under 20 ppm (under 10 is excellent)
• Copper: 0. Meds, some plant fertilizers, and contaminated hose fittings can wipe a tank overnight.

Stability > perfection. Slow drip acclimation (1–2 hours) when adding stock. Weekly or biweekly 20–30% changes with dechlorinated, copper-free water. Match temperature and avoid RO-only soft water without remineralizing—failed molts follow.

Diet and Feeding

Cherry shrimp are constant grazers. In a mature planted tank they live on biofilm and soft algae. That is their real job—not vacuuming fish waste.

Supplement 2–3× weekly (daily only in sparse new tanks):

• Shrimp pellets / algae wafers (tiny pieces)
• Blanched spinach, zucchini, cucumber, carrot
• Quality gel foods (e.g. spirulina-based)
• Rare protein (bloodworms/daphnia)—do not turn them into meat eaters

Overfeeding kills more colonies than underfeeding. Uneaten food spikes ammonia. Remove leftovers within a day. After a molt, leave the old shell—they recycle minerals.

Temperament and Tank Mates

Zero aggression. They ignore fish; fish often do not ignore them. Most of the day they comb glass, leaves, and wood in loose groups. Before a molt they hide; after a molt they are soft for hours—dense moss is life insurance.

Breeding in the open: Females show a “saddle” (egg mass under the carapace), then go berried with eggs under the tail for 3–4 weeks. Shrimplets hatch as tiny copies—no larval saltwater stage. In a shrimp-only planted tank, survival is high; with fish, most babies become snacks.

Best setups:

• Shrimp-only colony (fastest growth, pure color lines)
• With otocinclus, pygmy cory, nerite/mystery/ramshorn snails
• Tiny peaceful fish that cannot swallow adults: ember tetras, chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios—still expect some shrimplet loss

Incompatible: Bettas (classic shrimp hunters), angelfish, gouramis, goldfish, cichlids, large tetras/barbs, most “community” fish with big mouths. If it fits in a mouth, it is food.

Color lines: Grades run cherry → sakura → fire red → bloody mary by opacity and depth of red. Blues, yellows, oranges, and blacks are the same species selectively bred. Mixing morphs works socially but offspring trend muddy wild-type over generations. Separate tanks for pure grades.

Compatibility framework: choosing compatible tank mates. Related invertebrates: amano shrimp, ghost shrimp.

Common Mistakes

1. Copper. Ich meds, some snail killers, and copper-based plant additives equal mass death. Read every label.
2. Adding shrimp to an uncycled or sterile tank. No biofilm + new-tank spikes = corpses.
3. Betta + cherry shrimp “it’ll be fine.” Usually not for long.
4. Starting with three shrimp. Sex ratio and genetics need a group—10+.
5. Chasing Caridina-level soft water. Neocaridina want minerals for molting; ultra-soft RO without remineralization causes failed molts and the “white ring of death.”
6. Scooping out every molt shell and overfeeding wafers daily. Starve mineral recycling; foul the water.
7. Mixing color morphs while expecting show-grade red forever. They interbreed freely.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many cherry shrimp should I start with?

At least 10 so both sexes are likely and the colony can rebound from early losses.

Are cherry shrimp plant safe?

Yes. They graze algae and biofilm; they do not eat healthy stem plants the way some snails or large plecos might. Moss and fine plants are habitat, not salad.

Why did my whole colony die overnight?

Often copper, ammonia/nitrite, or a massive parameter swing. Test water and audit every product that entered the tank.

Can they live with fish?

Only with small, peaceful species and dense plant cover—and accept baby losses. Shrimp-only tanks breed fastest.

Do they need a heater?

If your room stays in the mid-60s to mid-70s°F, often no. Stable mid-70s encourages more breeding.

How fast do they breed?

Females berried with ~20–30 eggs for 3–4 weeks; in warm, stable tanks colonies can roughly double every few months.

Why is a shrimp white or cloudy?

A pale ring before molting can be normal. Whole-body white/cloudy or stuck in a shell points to failed molt or infection—check GH and water quality.

How long do they live?

About 1–2 years. Colonies persist because babies replace adults.

Related Resources

• Shrimp keeping guide
• Complete aquarium setup
• How to cycle a new aquarium
• Planted tank setup
• Algae control and prevention
• Choosing compatible tank mates
• Water testing and parameters
• Amano shrimp, ghost shrimp, otocinclus, pygmy cory
• Tools